by Catherine Doherty

I believe it might be timely for Easter recipes.

I am giving you the whole story of Easter cooking as it is recorded in our “Book of Customs.” We have quite a few customs accumulated in the 25 years of our apostolate. Amongst them festive foods.

Koolich – Russian Easter Bread
For a family of four to six

5 lbs. flour
10 eggs
1 qt. of milk (you might need a wee bit less or more)
1 to 2 lbs. of sugar (depending if you like your bread sweet, or not too sweet)
½ lbs. melted butter
1 cup raisins
½ cup of peel
1 teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
½ cup blanched chopped almonds
2 packages fast rising yeast
1 tablespoon cardamom seed with icing sugar
2 tablespoon saffron liquid
(You can skip the cardamom and saffron if they are hard to obtain, though most of the big department stores have them)

Sift the flour twice, so that it will be light, and make sure the flour has been placed the night before in the kitchen – not far from the stove – as the flour has to be warm. It rises better! The milk must be heated, lukewarm. Test on your wrist. Hot milk will kill yeast; cold will retard its rising. Next prepare the yeast, following the exact directions on the exact envelope. Separate the eggs. Beat the yolks with approximately ¼ lb. of sugar. The whites are left until last, but have to be beaten to “peaks.” Cardamon and saffron are the two spices that have to be prepared the night before. Cardamon is usually purchased in kernels or nuts. These must be heated on the top of the stove and then broken up. The little black seeds or kernels are then extracted and beaten with something heavy. Add a teaspoonful of icing sugar, until quite powdered. Sometimes you can buy them already hulled and ready to be beaten with sugar.

The saffron is placed in a cup and boiling water – about ½ cup – is poured over the delicate strands of that spice. It will produce a vivid, orange-yellow colour. This will penetrate the dough pleasantly and give it a lovely taste too.

When yolks are beaten, the flour sifted, the milk lukewarm, cardamom and saffron ready, the cook proceeds to work with same.

The flour is made ready by mixing into it all the dry ingredients – the remaining amount of sugar, raisins, peel, salt, cardamom, cinnamon and almonds.

Then the warm milk is taken, and into it is placed the saffron and the sugar-yoked beaten eggs and active yeast specially prepared. Now beaten whites of eggs are added.

Then the warm milk and its contents are slowly poured into the flour mixture. You might need a wee bit less or even more of milk – at this point it is hard to tell – it must not be too hard or soft, but easy to knead. When all the milk is put in, the kneading begins. The kneading proceeds until the dough easily falls off the hands of the cook and the utensil where it is kneaded.

As soon as this stage is reached, the dough is covered with a clean cloth and put near the stove to rise double its bulk.

While the Koolich is rising, prepare the tins to bake them in. Any kind of tins may be used, but it must be borne in mind that tow at least, representing Christ and the Church (if you are very ambitions and wish to increase the recipe, you can make 13 – Christ and the Apostles. These must be made higher than any others. For this, fruit juice tins could be used. The authentic size of a tin representing the Christ Bread should be 12” high and 6-8” wide.) The tin representing the Church should be 10” high and 5” wide. The rest of the Koolich can be baked in ordinary tins.

With the dough that is left over you can make the three letters P A X and use this as part of the center piece for the Easter table (Pax is Latin for Peace). The letters can be made by braiding the dough. Each letter is baked on a cookie sheet. All tins used for this bread are well greased.

Once the dough is in the tins, it is time to decorate them with blanched almonds that have been made ready. Before putting the breads in the oven, the top of them should be smeared either with melted butter or milk. That makes the baked laves shiny. The oven should be at 350 degrees, and the ordinary size tins should bake 1 hour. The tall ones should bake between 1 ¼ and 1 ½ hours, but it must be tested carefully to see if the dough is baked. You must be very watchful, as the tops of such reads burn easily. When the koolich breads are thoroughly baked, they are left to cool 24 hours. One can see immediately that baking time and preparation time begins Holy Thursday, so that by Holy Saturday everything is ready. When the 24 hours has elapsed, the top of the Koolich is further decorated with pink icing sugar, and white around the edges of the top. And dry icing sugar is sprinkled on them. The Christ Koolich and the Church Koolich are further decorated with an addition of a little cross on top, or a paper flower to make them stand out. They are then placed on the prettiest plates available, and are ready for serving.

Paska – represents the “Lamb of God”
For a family of four to six

2 lbs. of cottage cheese
½ lb. sugar
1/8 lb. of soft butter
3 eggs
1 cup raisins

Cottage cheese and sugar are well mixed first. Then the softened butter is added, and the mixture is beaten again. An electric beater can be used if available. The raisings and eggs are then added, and more mixing is done until the mixture is smooth and creamy.

Flower pots with a hole of 1 ½ “ in diameter are washed with boiling water and lined with gauze. Enough gauze must be used to line the pot fully and leave a surplus of about 5” outside of the pot.

The mixture is then poured into the flower pots lined with gauze. An inch and a half must be left at the top of the pot. The extra sides of the gauze are folded over the mixture so that it is cover with gauze. Little flat pieces of wood are then placed on top of the gauze to serve as a foundation for stones, iron pieces or what is available to weigh down the mixture. These must not touch the sides of the form of the pot, or they will not do their job of pressing out the fluid of the Paska. The whole idea of weights is to get the water, and other liquid, out of the mixture so it will be a compact mass when served.

It is advisable to have the Paska done on Holy Thursday, so that the pressing or squeezing process can be done that night. I twill take all of that time to achieve the required results for Easter. Friday, around noon, a little more eight is added.

The ingenuity of the cook is required to see that the pots drain right. The post cannot stand on the floor, but must be placed on two pieces of wood with a big empty space between them, allowing the liquid to run off. Nothing may touch the hole from which that liquid comes out, or the Paska will be spoiled – being too liquidy or too mushy to stand up.

Before going to Mass, the weights are removed gently, the gauze opened, and the Paska, now hardened and having the shape of a flower pot, is put on a nice plate. A paper flower, or a cross, is put on top. It represents Christ the Lamb. Now it is ready for serving.

In Madonna House a special form, made of wood, has been prepared for the Paska. It consists of four sides slanted, with liturgical symbols carved into the inner sides (so that these will show on the completed Paska).

Eggs

Eggs, symbolizing Eternal Life, which Christ has given us by His death and Resurrection, are quite a wondrous part of the Easter meal. We hard-boil and dry them. And, when the eggs are completely dry, we polish them with a rag dipped slightly in butter. Then we place the eggs
on nice plates, lovely bowls or baskets. They add much to the decoration of the table.

It would be nice if you explained to the children the liturgical meaning of the bread as Christ and His Church, Paska, the Lamb of God, and the eggs, Eternal Life, which Christ gave through His death and Resurrection.

by Catherine Doherty

We are still so filled with the holy days of December that our minds cannot think of any other cooking but that of the past season.

So, if you are a recipe saver, here are a few for your next December-January file.

Epiphany Fruit Bread

Ingredients for setting yeast batter:
1 ½ cups milk
1 cup sugar
½ teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
2 packages active dry yeast
3 cups all purpose flour
1 cup melted butter

Ingredients for remainder:
1 cup seedless raisins
½ cup currants
1 – 8oz. jar diced candied mixed fruit
4 cups all purpose flour

Scald milk and stir in sugar and slat. When cook, add yeast which has been set and mix. Add all other ingredients in first part of recipe and beat until smooth. Then add the remaining ingredients one at a time and knead the dough lightly on floured surface. Let rise. In about two hours punch dough down, and divide into three parts. Shape each part into a crown – representing the crowns of the Wise Men, and in each part put one penny. (The member of the family who gets the penny must say a prayer for the others for the balance of the week.) After the bread is shaped, let it rise again, and bake in moderate oven (350 degree F) for 30-40minutes. They may be iced with confectioners sugar icing, if desired.

Vanocka – Braided Christmas Bread
From Czechoslavakia

1 ½ cups milk
1 cup sugar
2 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground mace
2 packages active dry yeast
3 cups flour
2 eggs slightly beaten

Remaining ingredients:
5 cups all purpose flour
1 cup butter
1 tablespoon grated lemon rind
1 cup seedless raisins
½ cup chopped blanched almonds
1 egg yolk
2 tablespoons water

Set the yeast in warm water and a little sugar. Add the other ingredients listed in the first section. Sift the 5 cups flour in a bowl and cut in butter. Then stir down the yeast mixture and add lemon rind, raisins and almonds. Add yeast mixture to flour-butter mixture and beat well. Knead dough and let rise for about 2 hours. Then, divide the dough in half and divide one half into 3 equal portions.

Roll these into ropes 20 inches long. Let rest 15 minutes. Then braid very loosely. Seal ends; place on greased baking sheet. Next, divide remaining dough into 5 equal portions. Roll each into a slim rope 15 inches long. Loosely braid 3 ropes and place on top of larger braid; fasten with toothpicks.

Twist remaining 2 ropes and place on top of smaller braid; fasten with toothpicks. Cover and let rise for about 20 minutes. Beat egg yolks with tiny bit of water and brush on top. Bake in 350 degree oven for about 40 minutes.

Delicious! Just try it!

Speculatius – St. Nicholas Spice Cookies
From Holland

1 c butter
1c lard
2c brown sugar
½ c sour cream
½ t baking soda
4t cinnamon
½ t nutmeg
½ t cloves
4 ½ c flour
½ c chopped nuts (optional)

Cream butter, lard and sugar – by hand with rubber spatula or with electric mixer. In separate bowl, combine spices, baking soda and flour.

Add sour cream to creamed mixture, alternately with dry mixture. Stir in the nuts. Knead dough into rolls. Wrap in wax paper and chill overnight. Roll dough very thin and cut into shape of good St. Nicholas himself. Bake 375 for 10 minutes, or until not quite golden.

On small slips of paper we write a message from the Bible for every member of the family and insert it in the right arm of St. Nicholas. We cook this slip of paper with the cookie. We decorate the cookie to look like St. Nicholas himself and write each person’s name on the cookie with frosting.

by Catherine Doherty

Perhaps you might be interested in a few of the foreign recipes for Christmas cakes or other foods that bring us closer to our neighbors – wherever they may be.

Turta – Walnut layered strudel
From Romania

12 cups flour
6 egg yolks
4 tablespoon vegetable oil
About 2 ½ cups lukewarm water
About 2 cups flour for rolling dough
3 cups coarsely chopped walnuts
1 3/4 cups sugar
1 cup (1/2 lb) butter, melted
½ cup honey

Put flour in large mixing bowl; make a well in center; put in it egg yolks and oil. With a fork beat eggs and oil, gradually working in the flour, adding lukewarm water gradually to make a soft dough. Knead dough until it is very light; then place it on lightly floured board, cover with a bowl and let stand in warm place for 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, mix walnuts and sugar.

Cover large table with a clean cloth; sprinkle entire surface with flour. Cut dough into six pieces; knead into balls; keep covered with bowl.

Roll dough pieces, one at a time, to the size of a man’s handkerchief, lifting and turning frequently to make sure dough does not stick; brush top lightly with a little oil. Flour hands, both palms and backs; carefully stretch the dough from the underside, starting at the center of dough, until it is tissue thin, being careful not to make holes.

Trim edges of dough; cut into 9” squares; place these, one on top of the other, on greased jelly roll pan; brush each layer (including top) with melted butter and sprinkle with nut-sugar mixture.

Bake in moderate (350 degree F) oven, 15 minutes; pour honey over top, bake 45 to 50 minutes more. If top browns too fast, cover with brown paper or aluminum foil. Cut into squares to serve.

The beautiful and symbolic part of this recipe is that the thin coats of rolled dough represent the swaddling clothes of the Christ Child.

Buche de Noel – Christmas Log
From France

5 egg yolks
¼ cup cake flour
2 tablespoon cocoa
¼ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
1 cup confectioners sugar
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon almond extract
5 egg whites, stiffly beaten
Coffee cream filling
Chocolate cream frosting
Candied green pineapple rings or angelica for decoration

Line a greased jelly roll pan with waxed paper

Beat egg yolks until think and pale.

Stift together flour, cocoa, baking powder, salt, sugar and cinnamon; add to egg yolks; beat well.

Stir in almond extract and gently fold in beaten egg whites until batter is well blended.

Spread batter evenly in prepared jelly roll pan and bake in moderate (350 degree F) oven for 12 to 15 minutes, or until pointed knife when inserted comes out clean.

Quickly turn the cake out on damp towel sprinkled with confectioner’s sugar. Trim edges, roll cake in towel in jelly roll fashion, cool; reserve cut edges.

When cake has cooked and is ready to fill, unroll and spread evenly with Coffee Cream Filling, and roll again. Slice off end of cake diagonally.

Roll out reserved cut cake edges into shape of knots; fasten and secure with tooth picks on surface of roll to simulate rings where branches were cut off.

Spread Chocolate Cream Frosting over roll with spatula. Run tines of fork through frosting to make a rough surface in imitation of bark. Decorate with candied green pineapple, cut into leaves.

Coffee Cream Filling:
½ cup butter
¾ cup sifted confectioners sugar
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon dry instant coffee
1 tablespoon hot water

Cream butter until soft; add sugar gradually and cream until smooth. Beat in egg yolks, coffee and water; beat until easy to spread.

Chocolate Cream Frosting:
¾ cup butter
1 cup confectioners sugar
2 egg yolks
2 – 2oz. squares unsweetened chocolate, melted
3 tablespoons cocoa

Cream butter until soft; add sugar gradually, and cream until smooth. Beat in egg yolks, melted chocolate and cocoa; beat until easy to spread.

This Christmas Log is not only festive for your Yuletide board, but Delicious! Your family will love it!

by Catherine Doherty

How much we miss in fun, taste, adventure, and economy in bypassing yeast-raised dough and all the wondrous things one can make with it!

For some unearthly reason the modern housewife considers yeast dough, and all that goes with it, first a mystery, secondly a chore. Nothing could be further from the truth. It is less a chore than many elaborate dishes, and there is no mystery attached to it nowadays, because of the new fast-raising yeasts and the perfectly timed electrical or gas ranges. In fact it is very simple to dazzle the family with many new variations on an old theme, and to bring into the modern home that good homey nostalgic smell of newly baked yeast dough, which sharpens appetites even before one sees the finished product itself!

Take a yeast-dough meat pie with rich gravy. Make it, say, for a family of four.

Two fast raising yeast envelopes (Fleishman is best)
½ cup of lukewarm water
2 teaspoons of granulated sugar

First stir sugar in lukewarm water until sugar is well dissolved. Then add yeast. Add by sprinkling. Don’t mix. Let stand ten minutes. In the meantime, heat 2 ¾ cups of milk (or water) to scalding temperature. Add ½ cup of granulated sugar, 1/3 cup of shortening or any other fat you prefer (or have on hand) and ¼ teaspoon of salt.

Mix yeast mixture with second mixture and work into this combined liquid 4 cups of sifted ordinary white flour. Beat well until dough is elastic and smooth. Add about 2 to 3 cups more of white sifted flour. Put on board and knead until flour is well mixed and dough soft and elastic again. It takes only a few minutes really.

Then put into greased dish and let rise until double its original size. Keep it in a warm place in your kitchen, away from drafts. Usually it will rise enough in an hour. Then take half of your dough. Flour table or bread board well and roll dough out with rolling pin. At first it will sort of stretch, and you may think you are not getting anywhere. Jest press harder on the rolling pin and make of the dough a nice square – big enough to fit into the baking pan you want for the occasion (you know your family’s appetites!) and enough to cover over. For what you have in mind is a meat pie, remember.

O.K. So you rolled your dough over. It is a nice good square of orderly shape. Now you take the meat. Best for this is leftovers of beef that have been ground through a machine, with two raw onions and then seasoned to taste with salt and pepper. (I add just a pinch of paprika and sage.)

Now you lay out this meat mixture on half of your square of rolled out dough. Then cover it with the other half, and pinch sides all around nicely. Put into greased baking dish and smear the top with some melted butter. Put into oven and bake at 300 degrees for one hour. Serve piping hot with the following gravy:

Four finely chopped onions, browned
1 can of celery soup
Salt, pepper, sage and paprika to taste

If this gravy is a wee bit too thick for you, add water.

Some dough may have remained. Make buns with it. Usually though, everyone asks for a second helping. That meat pie is good cold too, for school lunches.

The other day those of us working in the kitchen were confronted with a tragedy – a nice pudding made of coffee cake and sweet bread crumbs which just did not get baked thoroughly.

There it was. Nicely brown outside, and raw inside – sort of heavy. A big pudding for there was many of us. We just could not throw it out. That would be sheer waste. And waste is sinful with millions of people going hungry in the world. And for us who take promises of poverty, it would be a sin even if all men had had their daily fill of food.

Pudding to Pancakes

So we put our heads together, and thought up ways and means of using this pudding. And the idea struck us, why not make pancakes of it. For after all what was “a pudding”? It was originally flour, eggs (bread crumbs are flour too) – so we treated it as if it were just that. Try it some time when you have pudding leftovers – raw or well cooked.

Take said leftovers and adding warm milk and a few more eggs (if you have them) – or dispensing with them if you don’t (water can be used instead of milk too) – reduce the mass to that state of liquidity that any of your pancake recipes call for. Then leisurely proceed to fry them. Make small fat pancakes. Serve with jam or powdered sugar. Truly it is delicious, cheap and an ingenious way of disposing of the hardest thing to dispose of that we know: pudding leftovers.

Have a Heart

So much for leftovers. Let us share a nice cheap recipe with you that will go a long way in stretching that budget of yours. Buy some beef hearts. They are still relatively cheap at our butchers. One, or two, or more, according to your family size. Remembering too that hearts are rich in proteins, vitamins and minerals. Boil said hearts, in water, well seasoned. I suggest that you add onions and paprika to the seasoning (don’t throw the water away – it makes lovely soup).

Boil hearts until tender. Then grind through your mince meat grinder and grind fine.

In meantime boil peeled potatoes – enough to make double the amount of your minced hearts. Mash them fine, well, and dry. Now take one onion raw, and grate it fine into the potatoes. Mix meat and potatoes most thoroughly. Add well beaten eggs – one to a cup of mixture. Put the mixture which has been well seasoned (according to your taste) to bake in a nicely shaped and well-oiled baking pan. We like the oblong type ones. Bake until browned well on all sides at 300 degrees.

Just before dinner take out. Put on platter. Serve with green peas and mashed potatoes and brown gravy. Yum! Yum! Your family will think you bought them pate-de-foie-gras right from Paris! Whilst you will smile a contented smile knowing that this meal for 4 or 6 people was somehwat inexpensive!

If you really want “brown gravy” be sure to “brown” your dry flour before you put it into action!

By Catherine Doherty

For over twenty five years, spent in the apostolate, I have been cooking in its various kitchens. Starting with the foundation of Portland Street, Toronto, on to the one in Ottawa, then to the Harlems of America, and back again to Combermere, the kitchen and I knew all about each other. For we spent many hours of each day together.

However this is not the only reason why this column is born. The real reason is our “budget.” Our rules provide that all members of the apostolate must use as a yardstick for their day-by-day life of poverty (which we embrace under promise) the same sum of money for food, fuel, etc., as that given by official relief agencies.

But often the money in our “kitty” was nowhere near that standard. Therefore a special ingenuity of love was needed to stretch food and dollars to their ultimate limits – and a little beyond. For this reason, slowly, over a period of many years, with constant prayers to Our Lady of the Kitchen, the patroness of all housewives and lay apostles – for wasn’t she a lay woman? – I and those whom I trained in the art of cooking have devised recipes that really fill young hungry stomachs at the least possible cost.

Many of our visitors have asked about these recipes. Gladly we share them.

In the year of grace 1955 we fed, all year round, some forty-odd people on less than ten cents per meal per person – and sometimes for twenty cents a day – a day of three regular meals – per person. All were pleased with the food and are still healthy and happy and working hard for the glory of God.

Thus it is evident that the budgets can be kept low if one has a fundamental knowledge of cooking, plus love and ingenuity.

Lately many friends have entreated us to write a cook book. I have been praying about that. Since I have so little time to sit down and write a book, or books, I cannot oblige at once. But what prevents my writing one or more recipes a month in Restoration? Nothing that I can see. Eventually maybe, by gathering them up, a book may be “amassed.”

Since the real inspiration behind the cooking, the loving and the stretching is Mary, the gracious Mother of God, I want to dedicate this humble column to her. Hence the title. Well – here’s the first “Cooking With Mary” recipe.

Carrot Loaf

Boil enough carrots to figure on half a cup (when mashed) per adult in your family. And the same amount of finely-cut onions.

Mash carrots well. Add shredded boiled onions.

For each half a cup of mashed carrots, add half a cup of mashed potatoes.

Add grated American cheese, the cheapest variety, to taste.

If eggs are in season, and cheap, add well-beaten eggs to the mixture; figuring on one egg per four cups of mashed vegetables. If eggs are expensive, forget them.

Add enough milk (powdered) to moisten well the whole mixture.

Add pepper, salt and favorite spices to taste.

Shape into a loaf.

Sprinkle with a wee bit of grated cheese.

Bake until firm at 350 degrees. Serve with sour white sauce or gravy.

Sour White Sauce or Gravy
For a family of four

One tablespoon of Lard, or any other fat you use in your cooking.
½ cup of white flour
½ cup of shredded onions
Salt, pepper, etc. to taste

Use enough pickling juice from any of your pickles to make a smooth gravy. If need be, it can be diluted with water. We save all our “pickling juices” in a specially-labelled jar and keep in the refrigerator until needed, using them for all sour sauces and gravies; also using them instead of vinegar for salads. Nice? Mmmmm!

Madame Queen’s Cornbread Dressing

1 baked cornbread crumbled
1 lb. ground beef
1 lb. ground pork
1 large onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 large bell pepper, chopped
4 ribs celery, chopped
1 chicken bouillon cube, dissolved in 1 cup warm water
1 tablespoon oil
3 tablespoons onion tops
3 tablespoons parsley
seasoning to taste
milk to moisten

Saute onion, garlic, bell pepper, and celery in sauce pan with the oil. Add the meat and bouillon cube that has been dissolved. Cook meat until light brown. Mix with crumbled cornbread, onion tops and parsley. Add more milk to moisten if necessary. Season to taste. Bake at 350 degrees until brown.

This dressing can be prepared the day before and baked the next day which is a good to know for holidays.

My living grandmother was following just about the same recipe, except the browning the meat part. Once the vegetables became transparent, the meat was added but cooked for quite some time after it had turned light brown. She would let it stick to the bottom of the pot just a little, then from a cup of water perpetually at the side of the stovetop, pour in like 1/8 cup of water. It was just enough to allow her to scrape the browned bits off the bottom with her spatula and allow it to keep browning without burning. And that’s the cycle – brown, water, scrape. I really believe it gives a greater flavour to the meat in a recipe like this.

But it’s also the basis for any good gravy making. Recently, I attempted a pork roast in my dutch oven on the stovetop. My neighbour couldn’t believe I wasn’t doing it in the oven, but I remember my father doing it this way and wanted to try. I seared every side first, then added the remaining vegetables of the marinade I had stuffed into little holes all over the roast. No, I’m not talking potatoes and carrots, but the three veggies Cajuns won’t do without – onions, bellpepper and celery. In this case, I added in garlic. There was never too much garlic for pork, according to my Dad.

Again, once the vegetables were withered and mostly transparent, I began the brown, water, and scrape. I let it do that all afternoon. Half way through I put a good amount of water – a cup or two – in the bottom to turn all the delicious brown stuff into the gravy. But I still had to be watchful and careful it did not burn. The roast did fall apart in the end, but I just forked it into serving size pieces. It and the gravy was the best I’d ever done. I was so proud!

I experimented with this technique last week when I made chili. A pound of beef and a pound of pork after the vegetables, and browned them until at least half of the meat was just kissed with that dark brown color. From there, I followed the instructions on the back of the chili seasoning packet – yum, yum! OH, only belatedly did I realize the seasoning was only sufficient for one pound of meat, so I scrounged out this homemade version to get the double seasoning I needed and it worked. It was my first chili that I really liked. For bean lovers, just add the beans with the tomato sauce.

2 tablespoon chili powder
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning
1/2 teaspoon salt
dissolved in a little cup of water

I’ll post more recipes to use this browning technique with as I find them.